Парфюм. История ароматов XX века - страница 96
Berta Ruck, Miss Million’s Maid: A Romance of Love and Fortune, Hutchinson & Co., 1915.
Compton Mackenzie, Carnival, Martin Secker, 1912.
Agnes Castle, Diamonds Cut Paste, John Murray, 1909.
CLIMAX
история каталога Sears, Roebuck в американской культуре: David L. Cohn, The Good Old Days: A History of American Morals and Manners as Seen Through the Sears, Roebuck Catalogs 1905 to the Present, Simon and Schuster, 1940.
Исторические каталоги Sears, Roebuck and Co., 1896–1900: http://search.ancestry.co.uk/search/db.aspx?dbid=1670, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.
О влиянии американских железных дорог: Richard Saunders, Merging Lines: American Railroads, 1900–1970, 2nd edn, Northern Illinois University Press, 2001.
MOUCHOIR DE MONSIEUR
Иллюстрация «An Exquisite Alias Dandy in Distress» [1819?] любезно предоставлена Lewis Walpole Library: http://images.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/oneitem.asp?imegeId=1w1pri2017, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.
L’origan
Об истории универмагов: Robert Hendrickson, The Grand Emporiums: The Illustrated History of America’s Great Department Stores, Stein and Day, c. 1979; Jan Whitaker, The Department Store: History, Design, Display, Thames & Hudson, 2011; Lindy Woodhead, Shopping, Seduction & Mr Selfridge, Profile, 2012.
Упоминание о фонтане с фиалковой водой: Émile Zola, Au Bonheur des Dames, Charpentier, 1883.
Об истории Франсуа Коти и его парфюмерном бизнесе: Roulhac B. Toledano and Elizabeth Z. Coty, François Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money, Pelican, 2009.
Ранняя реклама парфюмов Coty в США: The Salt Lake Herald, 16 March 1905.
О наследии Coty: http://graindemusc.blogspot.co.uk/2008/08/Cotylorigan-lheure-bleue-without-blues.html, посещение 6 мая 2015 г.
SHEM-EL-NESSIM
Об ориентализме в торговле: William Leach, Land of Desire: Merchants, Power, and the Rise of a New American Culture, Vintage, 1994.
Virginia Lea, “Sweet Odors’, Vogue, American edition, June 1899.
Издания журнала Physical Culture: http://libx.bsu.edu/cdm/search/collection/PhyCul, accessed 28 April 2015.
Bernarr Macfadden, The Virile Powers of Superb Manhood: How Developed, How Lost; How Regained, Physical Culture Publishing, 1900.
POMPEIA
О неизменном интересе к Помпеям: Judith Harris, Pompeii Awakened: A Story of Rediscovery, I.B. Tauris, 2007; Ingrid D. Rowland, From Pompeii: The Afterlife of a Roman Town, The Belknap Press of Harvard University Press, 2014.
О парфюмах L.T. Piver на теплоходе SS Republic: http://odysseysvirtualmuseum.com/categories/SS-Republic/Artifacts/Bottles/Cosmetics/?sort=featured&page=1, посещение 7 мая 2015.
О традиции худу: Katrina Hazzard-Donald, Mojo Workin’: The Old African American Hoodoo System, University of Illinois Press, 2013.
Примеры использования Pompeia в ритуале худу: Ray T. Malbrough, Hoodoo Mysteries: Folk Magic, Mysticism & Rituals, Llewellyn Publications, 2003; Kenaz Filan, Vodou Money Magic: The Way to Prosperity through the Blessings of the Lwa, Destiny Books, 2010.
AMERICAN IDEAL
Исторические каталоги California Perfume Company: the Avon Historical Archive at the Hagley Library, at: http://digital.hagley.org/cdm/search/collection/p15017coll20, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.
PEAU D’ESPAGNE
О рецептах Peau d’Espagne девятнадцатого века: G.W. Septimus Piesse, The Art of Perfumery and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants, Lindsay and Blakiston, 1857.
Havelock Ellis, Studies in the Psychology of Sex: Sexual Selection in Man, 1927.
Анализ Peau d’Espagne в декадентской поэзии: Catherine Maxwell, «Scents and Sensibility: The Fragrance of Decadence», Jason
David Hall and Alex Murray (eds.), Decadent Poetics: Literature and Form at the British Fin de Siecle, Palgrave Macmillan, 2013.
James Joyce, Ulysses, Sylvia Beach, 1922.
O. Henry, «Past One at Rooney’s», Strictly Business: More Stories of the Four Million, Doubleday, Page & Co., 1910.
Театральные десятые годы: 1910–1919
Adlington, Lucy, Great War Fashion: Tales from the History Wardrobe, The History Press, 2013.
Doyle, Peter, First World War Britain: 1914–1919, Shire, 2012.
Gosling, Lucinda, Great War Britain: The First World War at Home, The History Press, 2014.
Nicholson, Virginia, Among the Bohemians: Experiments in Living 1900–1939, Viking, 2002.
Nicholson, Virginia, The Great Silence, John Murray, 2010.
О внутривенных инъекциях парфюма: «Perfume Now Injected», New York Times, 1 October 1912.
О «Русском балете» как источнике вдохновения для парфюмов: Davinia Caddy, The Ballets Russes and Beyond: Music and Dance in Belle-Époque Paris, Cambridge University Press, 2012.
О парфюмах в театре: «Inspiring an Actress to Act by Giving Her a Perfume «Jag», The Washington Herald, 23 May 1915; «Perfume Jag» Is Aid to Acting», Oakland Tribune, 16 May 1915.
NARCISSE NOIR
Jean Nathan, The House of Satan, Alfred A. Knopf, 1926.
For the judgement on Caron’s attempt to protect the intellectual property of Narcisse Noir, see: Caron Corporation v. Conde, Limited, New York Supreme Court, 213 N.Y. Supp. 785.
Репортажи из сала суда во время слушаний по делу Narcisse Noir: Patent and Trademark Review, Volume 23, 1923; The Business Law Journal, Volume 8, 1926; The Trade-mark Reporter, Volume 17, 1927.
SPECIAL № 127
О рекламе, в которой упоминаются аристократы-покровители парфюмов: La Belle Assemblée, 1 December 1812.
POINSETTIA
История девушек «Гэйети»: http://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/9009, посещение 28 апреля 2015 г.
О новом театре «Гэйети» и его шоу: http://www.arthurlloyd.co.uk/GaietyTheatreLondon.htm, accessed 28 April 2015.
A review of Peggy at the Gaiety Theatre in 1911, The Play Pictorial, Volume XVIII, Number 107.
Olive May quote in Poinsettia advertisement, Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News, Volume 76, 1912.
Leslie Stuart, «The Lass with the Lasso» in Peggy, 1911.
NUIT DE CHINE
О Поле Пуаре и его парфюмах: Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton, PoIret, Yale University Press, 2007; Paul PoIret, King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul PoIret, trans. Stephen Haden Guest, V&A Publishing, 2009.
«An Alchemist in Perfumes», Vogue, American edition, 1 August 1916.
О бале «1002-я ночь»: Aleksandr Vasil’ev, Beauty in Exile: The Artists, Models, and Nobility who Fled the Russian Revolution and Influenced the World of Fashion, Harry N. Adams, 2000.
Robert Forrest Wilson, Paris on Parade, Bobbs-Merrill, 1925.
Anne Archbald, “The Vanity Box’, Theatre Magazine, December 1922.
ESS VIOTTO
О женщинах, работавших во время Первой мировой войны: Susan R. Grayzel, Women’s Identities at War: Gender, Motherhood, and Politics in Britain and France during the First World War, University of North Carolina Press, 1999; Deborah Thom, Nice Girls and Rude Girls: Women Workers in World War I, I.B. Tauris, 1998.
Bronnley advertisement for Ess Viotto, featured in The Sketch, Volume 90, 1915.
ENGLISH LAVENDER
The Sketch, 7 April 1915.
«The Lavender Country», The Farmer’s Magazine, July 1872.
The Sketch, 13 December 1916.
LE BOUQUET PRÉFÉRÉ DE L’IMPÉRATRICE
Обзор советских парфюмов: http://www.realussr.com/ussr/soviet-brands-the-scent-of-communism-part-1-of-2/, accessed 28 April 2015; Susan E. Reid, “Gender and the Destalinisation of Consumer
Taste in the Soviet Union Under Khrushchev’ in Emma Casey and
Lydia Martens (eds), Gender and Consumption: Domestic Cultures and the Commercialisation of Everyday Life, Ashgate, 2007.
Elena Skrjabina, After Leningrad: A Diary of Survival During World War II, Southern Illinois University Press, 1978.
О культурности в советской культуре: Oleg Kharkhordin, «Reveal and Dissimulate: A Genealogy of Private Life in Soviet Russia» in Jeff Weintraub and Krishan Kumar (eds), Public and Private in Thought and Practice: Perspectives on a Grand Dichotomy, University of Chicago Press, 1997.
«Perfume Commemorates Joint Space Mission’, Lakeland Ledger, 16 July 1975.
LE FRUIT DÉFENDU
Более подробно о черно-белом фильме «Белоснежка»: Robert K. Klepper, Silent Films, 1877–1996: A Critical Guide to 646 Movies, McFarland, 1999.
CHYPRE
О Франсуа Коти и его парфюмерном бизнесе: Roulhac B. Toledano and Elizabeth Z. Coty, François Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money, Pelican, 2009.
